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Post by MiNiTiCi on Feb 27, 2005 5:15:43 GMT -5
Doug I was thinking of using something wider than 7.5 at the back, in fact my choice was for some 20X13X7.5 in the front and some 20X13X9.5 in the back. What do you guys think I am off the wall ? Hi Fred, I currently run 20x13x7.0 on 8" wide rims at the front and 22x13x9.0 on 10" wide rims at the rear (although I did run 20x13x9.0 originally). The widest 10" diameter racing slick I have seen is an Avon 8.5/16x10 (the 16" OD seems tiny compared with the Hoosiers - I wonder what these are designed for? Was this the size that was used on the 6 wheeled Tyrrell?) Doug |
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Post by MiNiTiCi on Feb 27, 2005 5:34:50 GMT -5
Ok, earlier on in this post I read something about bike calipers. The problem is that the blead nipple is on top of the caliper, and that makes the caliper quite tall. I don't think they would be easy to fit under 10" wheels. Adam Hi Adam, I take your point with clearance problems with bike calipers. On the rear of my Hawke I have Suzuki bike calipers and I have serious clearance problems, even with 13" rims. So much so, that I can only use spun alloy 3 piece rims rather than cast alloys. I still occasionaly get a bit of grit caught between the caliper and the inner face of the rim (and get some ugly scars on the V.expensive rims). The other problem with most bike calipers is that they are designed for very thin discs (6mm/0.25") so it would be necessary to skim down the Mini discs to fit. The pictures I posted of the single pot Honda caliper show that this type can accomodate the standard Mini disc, the caliper is a lot more compact and the inlet and bleed nipple ends should be easy to swap for LH & RH fitting (With my suzuki calipers I have to unbolt the LH caliper and turn it upside down every time I want to bleed the brakes - not very convenient!). I have not tried the Honda caliper in a 10" wheel yet. The Honda calipers came in a box of jumble, so I have no idea from which ancient model they came. They have been modified to clear the Mini hub and have had their mounting holes plugged and redrilled to suit Mini caliper mounting lugs. Perhaps some (cheap) second hand billet alloy Mini calipers will appear on e-Bay some day?  Doug. |
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Post by Terrapin on Feb 27, 2005 10:06:48 GMT -5
Mark, a few points for clarity here:
apologies - assumed you would go for 12 or 13 inch rims as they are so readily avialable.
I am using the metro hubs/discs, easy as the suspension can be adjusted
I now have many choices of discs with this set up
solid (even skimmed down if needed, vented etc. and as Doug mentioned I could go to alloy calipers if funds permit)
If you use 10 inch rims you restrict yourself.
In my case I see all these as development once the build is complete.
You may want to experiment during construction.
I think my only issue is the weight of the cast iron calipers - but money can resolve this.
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Post by Terrapin on Feb 27, 2005 10:10:30 GMT -5
PS: I have a contact at Kumho if you want new 13" slicks/wets at reasonable prices
Also contact for slightly used 13" slicks at very reasonable prices.
I picked up al my revolution wheels reasonably then had them stripped , blast cleaned, etch primed and powder coated red ral 3020 at a local firm (can get any of your wheels done by then at good cost if needed)
They all look fantastic (see link below for a few pics)
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Post by Mr Locost on Feb 27, 2005 16:24:43 GMT -5
13" weller steels are cheap 2nd hand, and half used slicks are available cheaply in 13" sizes. I think 13" would be a more sensible size.
Adam
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Post by stu on Feb 28, 2005 0:19:49 GMT -5
Well, believe it or not, I run the standard mini drums with standard mini linings (twin leading shoes) both front and rear.
I have done over 18 events with most of them at Levels raceway without a problem.
My reasoning was that MINI discs and metro parts are hard to find.
The terrapin weighs 400 kg at race weight and standard linings haul up ok!!
I do not suffer from fade( only brain fade occassionally) but fitted front scoops to get some air through them in case.
One thing i have done though is drill 4 3mm holes around the outside to let gas escape from the lining faces. NO, they havent cracked or chewed out the linings before you ask!
The cars light weight means that drums work fine, discs would be nice but in my case unobtainable.
Just something more for you to think about.
cheers stu
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Post by Terrapin on Feb 28, 2005 4:06:41 GMT -5
Stu, nice to see such a "pragmatic" solution here by yourself.
I'm using Metro discs here in UK as they are "cheap as chips" , readily available in solid and vented so I can interchange front from vented to solid if required and I can machine down solid discs if weight is an issue.
How far do we go with this?
bike discs , billet calipers, fabricated alloy uprights - yes, all possible time, money and experience permitting.
Pleased to see this topic has created so many posts & visits.
;D
Lets hope poor Mark can unravel all this
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Wayne
New Member
Posts: 49
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Post by Wayne on Feb 28, 2005 4:28:32 GMT -5
Hi Mark im running Disks on the front and Drums on the rear. The reason being much the same as Stu Disks are hard to come by down here and the ones you can get cost an arm and a leg
Cheers Wayne
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Post by BigMark on Feb 28, 2005 14:18:35 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for all your help and advice.
I have decided that I will be going down the 8.4" disc route mini or metro.
I think once the car is built (many many months from now) I may play with bike calipers etc but I think the K.I.S.S system is the one to be followed by me.
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