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Post by Terrapin on Jan 28, 2011 9:09:03 GMT -5
Don't worry too much. The wiring for a single seater is very basic and the donor wiring is not complex either. I would not be surprised if you ended up making your own loom - most people do.
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Jan 28, 2011 15:15:35 GMT -5
Hello Rob,
I'm worrying about because I haven't a clue what eletricity is all about.It makes light and keeps my welder going but that's about as far as my knowledge goes.
Making my own loom? that will be the day !!!!!
Still pretty far away from that so I'm trying to concentrate on getting that old Metro apart and fabricating the "car".
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Feb 6, 2011 11:19:35 GMT -5
at least got the engine out.Might need some cleaning though ;D Attachments:
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Feb 9, 2011 15:51:34 GMT -5
I dismantelled the steering colom of the Metro today and was surprised that actually the steering shaft was one straight steel rod !! No crumple zone,no UJ's so I can imagine that in a frontal accident that steering speer could do some damage to your chest !! Have to figure out how to build in some safety in that regard and am thinking along the lines of some shorter sections with UJ's between them and put some angles in so the steering shaft will collapse rather than be pushed towards the driver. Attachments:
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Feb 13, 2011 8:21:50 GMT -5
Finally managed to remove the engine from the sub frame.Added the Metro wheel for looks. Attachments:
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Feb 13, 2011 8:26:34 GMT -5
After inspection I discovered a small hairline crack in the diff housing.  It's barely visible in the picture but it's under the copper color sticker.There is a metal strap between two bolts left of where the crack is.Is the diff known for cracks in this area and is that the reason for this metal strap to strengthen things? Attachments:
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Post by MiNiTiCi on Feb 13, 2011 12:34:28 GMT -5
The metal straps are just locking tabs for the bolts.
The housings are not particularly prone to cracking but could have been a casting defect.
I should have a few housings lying about in the garage.
In fact I have just been tidying up the garage today and came across (9) engines!
(5) were A-Series.
I think that there are another (5) lying about in other sheds......
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Feb 13, 2011 13:13:06 GMT -5
Hello Douglas, is it somehing to realy worry about ? I know it will be when that chunk of aluminium will fall out and some grid or stones get inside the diff while running  Think I will get the pressure washer to remove most of the gunk so who knows what else shows up when the engine is clean? |
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Post by MiNiTiCi on Feb 13, 2011 14:19:19 GMT -5
Hi Gilbert, So long as it was not caused by part of the differential or gearbox trying to 'escape', I would just replace the housing.
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Feb 14, 2011 13:01:27 GMT -5
I just cut off one of the rear suspension arms and was surprised (again !!) that the rear suspension arm is actually a 5 mm wall thickn. tube,seemingly of mild steel,I could slice through it with a 1mm cutting disk like through butter.
The idea is to fabricate my own front uprights using the rear drum hub following my idea of a one car donor.
I have no clue if it's an advantage or disadvantage to have drum's in the front and disks in the rear.I assume that all round disks would be better.
Will take some pictures tomorrow.
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Post by MiNiTiCi on Feb 14, 2011 14:22:41 GMT -5
Mini/Metro rear drum brakes are not really suitable for the front.
Backplate is for single leading shoe brakes as opposed to twin leading normally used on the front of most early (pre 84) Minis. The drum brakes are not self adjusting and can be a bit fiddly to get the balance right.
Alloy drums are available but I'm sure you would be better to graft a disc brake rotor onto whatever hub/stub axle you use with your fabricated front upright.
A lot of single seater race cars use very simple front uprights fabricated from 3 pieces of tube and a bit of welding (Jedi and early OMS).
My Royale RP29 is the same - one large diameter tube to house the wheel bearings and two tubes welded to this with threaded ends to take 5/8" UNF spherical bearings to pivot the upright. There are a couple of brackets to take two alloy plates which form the steering arms and a 1/8" thick bracket is welded to the bearing tube for mounting the brake caliper.
As for stub axles and wheel hub - I would just buy a couple of new Mini hubs and outer CV joints - standard ones are very cheap.
Chop the outer end off the CV joints and use them as live stub axles (well chop the ends off the old Metro ones and use the new ones on your rear driveshafts).
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Post by Terrapin on Feb 15, 2011 5:40:12 GMT -5
Gilbert, Doug is giving you very sound advice. Also, Ebay is a great source of parts. Best not to make life difficult.
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Feb 15, 2011 10:04:47 GMT -5
promised picture of the rear suspension arm Attachments:
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Feb 15, 2011 10:06:26 GMT -5
Who in his right mind can get wise out of that spagheti knot? Simple wiring loom of the Metro. Attachments:
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Cita
Junior Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Cita on Feb 15, 2011 10:07:26 GMT -5
Farewell Austin Metro ;D Attachments:
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